• brandenfugate

Road Notes: Day 118

Today was our last full day in New Orleans. We got a semi-early start because we still had a number of things to cross off the list before we left, the most important of which being the filming of a shotgun tribute in front of the original site of the shop owned by Creole apothecary Antoine Peychaud—the man who in 1830 (or thereabouts) created his namesake bitters. Peychaud’s bitters would quickly become famous as a key ingredient in the Sazerac, the now official cocktail of New Orleans. Depending on who you ask, an early version of the Sazerac (sans absinthe) may or may not have been created by Antoine Peychaud himself. Anyhow, more on that another time. We had planned to film the whole thing yesterday but, contrary to the weather report, it sprinkled all damn day.

We started the day with some haircuts (we didn’t have a Groupon for a couple’s haircut or anything we just both happened to need a haircut). We ended up at this salon in the Garden District that was absolutely cavernous (we had to be walked to the bathroom because giving directions would have been impossible). As luck would have it my stylist was a native Texan who had lived in Austin for 10yrs and she gave me some great advice.

Next we had lunch at Pizza Domenica, which had been recommended to me (“a must”) by a very talented chef who happens to be my ex. She was right, it was incredible. Strangely enough, the salad was the star of the show—shaved brussels, fresh herbs, almond slivers, golden raisins, and a whole-grain mustard vinaigrette. Unreal. Will try to recreate in the near future.

After lunch we rushed down the street to the local Ace hardware just before they closed in order to snag a 17’’ long 1/2’’ socket wrench so I can install our weight distribution hitch tomorrow before we officially hit the road for Austin. The adjustment bolts need to be torqued to 260 ft. lbs. By my calculations if I stand on this wrench the 17” should provide just enough mechanical advantage to get us pretty much on the money (if you know the torque formula then I’ve just told you my weight).

Next we headed towards the French Quarter to set up and film, hopefully just as the sun was going down. We missed the sun (damn parking) but we did arrive just in time to witness a street performer—dressed as Darth Vader and dancing to the hits—getting set-up in our spot. We adjusted a bit and just used him as a back drop. Hoping he doesn’t drown out our audio though. What can you do?

After filming we made the long walk across town to Cochon Butcher (on another suggestion). On the way we passed Latitude 29 and couldn’t stop ourselves from coming in for just one last drink, despite the fact that Cochon was set to close rather soon. Lat 29 is the only place in New Orleans that we visited twice. We shared a frozen banana concoction (stupid b/c we were in a hurry so, ya know, brain freeze) that was delicious and topped with an annoyingly clever garnish.

We left Lat 29 and rushed to Cochon Butcher where we inhaled our weight in housemade charcuterie and bacon jam and a flatbread with Moroccan-spiced lamb. We left with 1/2lb of farmer’s pâté to slice and fry up in the morning for breakfast.

We finished the night with a couple $5 hot buttered rums at Molly’s on Market (another recommendation). It was an incredible dive and the rum was, not a joke, thick enough for a straw stand. It was like drinking melted pralines. Delicious, but by the end I was jittery and tired at the same time.

We walked very slowly to the truck. We have fallen hard for this town and will miss it dearly.

Now to Texas.


Road Notes are timed entries—written in thirty minutes or less at the end of each day.

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